Reminiscing.....

Inside the Tower of London

So this last week, I have been reading, amongst other things Markham’s Richard III: His Life & Character. It got my wheels turning, as to some of his major points he draws on in his chapters about the princes and what became of them have also been questioned by myself. He also brings up a very interesting point about the authorship of the many articles that were written about the incident, as well as many others; including the Croyland Chronicles of London through out his argument. What went on in those author's heads?

He tried not to let the wax from the candle above the ledge of the writing desk drip to the parchment as he hurried the last few sentences of the following day’s news. Out of the corner of his eye watching the wax drip… and drip. People were talking, talking about many things, and the word needed to get out; Edward IV’s sons were missing. More than likely dead. He hadn’t heard the word murdered yet from anyone’s lips, but definitely missing. 

His hands shook as he blew the drying sand off the parchment to help make the ink set and dry faster. King Richard was still in York. He knew that much, but still there were many unanswered questions. He had to have known the fate of the children, how could he not.

Nervously, he read over his work, blew out his light and gave it to the grandmaster.

“I am done with tomorrow’s bit.” He nodded and said, as he backed away from the elder monk, waiting for criticism or acknowledgement. He never knew which would come first if any.

“The words, stories, are every where. Where is the King? He has to know?” He said again.

“Let's hope we know the truth soon, once he returns. Perhaps this is a misunderstanding, or one of the Lancaster’s plays of folly.” The grandmaster said as he glanced over the article the novice monk gave him. He hoped he didn't have to publish this... or more like wish it wasn't so.....

Folly, or misunderstanding, many of the accounts that were written whether they were against Richard’s reign or not, many baseless and not backed up by solid evidence as noted in Markham’s book. Personal prejudices at times, got in the way and aided the rumors. Will we ever know what happened? We might not but we can for sure develop a better understanding of the writers who wrote the articles and their basis for doing so.  Markham's book is perhaps one of my favorite sources of the life and time's of Richard III and the world he lived in.

What to Wear During the War of The Roses

"The White Queen"

I have always been a huge costume nut.  Great films and shows always are an excellent source of inspiration for me and anyone to create something fun, and eventually useful. Back in my college years, "Braveheart" helped me create an early medieval outfit for one of my medieval studies class, and lots of “Ohhhs and Awwws” from classmates.  Emma Thompson's and Ang Lee's adaptation of Jane Austen's "Sense and Sensibility" resulted in half a wardrobe filled with Regency period dresses, which all got worn to various Gaskell’s Balls in the Bay Area.  Yet no Mr. Darcy was seen.  Le sigh.

Most recent in my period costume film quest, I have discovered “The White Queen” produced by Starz yet even though not 100% historically accurate; has inspired pattern makers and costume/period dress nuts like myself, now to have a reason to make some pretty festive and beautiful frocks.  I finally have a use for the pewter crushed velvet in my sewing fabric stash! YAY! 2014 Night at the Symphony Costume Contest/Event, here I come!

Elizabeth Woodville

 

Back on topic. Dress.  It’s the War of the Roses.  Edward IV is trying not to get his supply of cloth cut off from Flanders and strikes a deal with Burgundy and his sister Margaret of York is escorted by the Earl Warwick, Richard Neville, to Burgundy for her pending marriage to help keep this important relationship open, and trade to keep going, despite rising conflict lurking in the horizon.  With this political backdrop, what did ladies wear, mainly the ladies at court? Dress during this time was actually quite depended on region.

15th Cent Italian Dress

For example Italy was on its own wavelength in contrast to the rest of the continent, as seen in paintings during the times. The northern part of Europe dressed a bit more to climate.   

Patterned fabric of period

The century began with the gown called “cotehardie” which we refer to as the one with the large bell sleeves and fitted down through the waist. This style faded quickly with introduction of new designs.  Gowns were long of course, and trimmed with fur (ermine, mink etc.) on the cuff, around the collar and sometimes the hem. Fabric was available in various dyes at this time.

The darker colors, reds, blues, dark green, blacks with brocades or patterned in artichoke or oak leave patterns; were of significant cost, mainly worn by those who could afford it, meaning the nobility. This style of gown is most known by the name: “houppelandes” which refer to the long flowing dresses of the time.

Garments were displayed or worn with a style called “slashing” which meant it was opened to reveal an other bit of clothing underneath, like a kirtle or under gown in contrasting colors (most common white or black). A chemise was worn close to the skin.  As time went on, repairs in sleeves of both men and women also accentuated this method of style.

Sleeves were mostly cuffed with matching fur from the color yet could be transferred to other gowns, with ornamentation on the cuff with jewels or embroidery. Also at times, if fur wasn’t worn, patterned fabric was used on both collar and cuff, which became more fashionable later in the century.

So what have I done with all this wealth of inspiration and creativity? I have put it to some use. I have made some alterations and adaptations of my own, but here is a glimpse of my current sewing project.  Today, we are lucky, we have sewing machines, just imagine all this work was done by hand at one point in time.  Headpiece… don’t ask me if I am going to make a hennin, I am not there yet. 

Step one: cutting out the dress: 

Detail of the side of the bodice, before I finished bead work.

Where we are at as of Sunday: Black sash, bodice jeweled, sleeves work in progress.

The White Knight Syndrome

Why we are all so enamored by the story of Richard and Anne?

Richard rescues Anne from the battlefield

 That moment in the middle of Tewkesbury battlefield in “The White Queen” where Richard, who is still the Duke of Gloucester (portrayed by Aneurin Barnard) at this time, rescues Anne Neville (portrayed by Faye Marsay) from impending doom.  Just about every girl’s heart stopped for a minute.  And we all sigh and dream that we are in Anne’s place.  Why? It’s the fairy tale come true romance, we have all dreamed of: “Knight in shining armor” comes to rescue fair damsel in distress” which is Anne.  He is like Lancelot!  This idea is not a new one; it actually has it roots very far back in folklore and of the chivalric tales of the Middle Ages.  This is also more than likely why the real story about Anne and Richard was so popular amongst 14^th century society.  In a world of political upheaval and turmoil, the idea of romantic love was a break from reality that most wished and desired. Reality was war, loss, and destruction.

Having already discussed the concept of courtly love and the importance it had amongst society, its time to take the story a bit further. What were people’s lives like that led them to believe and wish for their “white knight” to come bounding through terrors, slay dragons, and rescue them from afar? What was life like for the noble woman of the 14^th century?

The political pawn

Isabelle and Anne

Anne Neville came from one of the most politically prominent families during the time of the War of the Roses. Her story and her upbringing are actually quite typical of what a young lady of noble status would have experienced during this time and also previous periods of the Middle Ages. Having daughters meant that families who sought or wished to maintain their power and lands, had means to do so.  The ability of expanding their empire or household was a large possibility of a good marriage between their daughters with other lords and nobles in the realm or from neighboring countries.  In cases where money was involved, it also was a way that monies were obtained and made in the form of a dowry.  The higher the dowry was for the soon to be bride, the more valuable she became to her suitors and her family.

To manage the household

Noble women in the Middle Ages didn’t just sit around bear children for their husbands, do needlepoint and gossip, they actually were schooled from a young age to know how to run a large household, amongst other duties. They would have shadowed their mothers growing up and assisted them in their duties, such as making sure goods were stocked in the kitchens, if messages needed to be sent to neighboring lords for items or assistance, they made sure they were sent. Days were structured starting with prayers said each morning at mass and followed up each night by prayer. This routine would be taught to her daughters as well.  She would have ladies in waiting to assist her with dressing, arranging her hair, and other tedious aspects of medieval life.  In addition to overseeing how the house ran, she would also supervise the education of other noble daughters, as well as her own girls.

embroidery and other hobbies of the ladies

Evenings after meals, were prepared and served, to the liking of the head of the household, stories of courtly love, poetry, games, and music were the most popular forms of entertainment in most noble households. It is here that the stories of “Tristan and Isolde”, or “De Morte Arthur” were told. It is more than likely these stories were what Anne heard quite often growing up in Middleham and Warwick castle. To a little girl who’s father had great plans, the thought of being carried off by her true love was a perfect dream for her, as well as many other girls pending an arranged marriage to someone they did not know.

Honor thye husband

One of the most important lessons a mother in the Middle Ages, as well as the church, taught her daughter was to honor their husband.  This also was meant towards their fathers as well. To disobey or dishonor brought shame to the household. This alone stressed acceptance to a political or arranged marriage matches between a young bride to her husband to be.  It is also why stories such as “Tristan and Isolde” were seen as scandalous, yet quite popular amongst court tromboudors. 

Her education from upbringing also is what made the lady of the household the main emotional support for her husband. This is clearly evident in many of the scenes of “The White Queen” between Anne and Richard, and also in history with Cecily Neville, Eleanore of Aquitaine and others. The women where the ones who many of times picked up the pieces if they had to move, wait patiently with children during a siege, and at times without their husbands during long standing wars.  Her job was to keep her household safe, yet be of support for her husband off at war and keep hope alive for his safe return. She was the keeper of his heart and of his soul should harm fall upon him, as her blessing was said to protect.

Finally, one of the most important aspects of her duties to her husband was to bear him an heir, to carry on the line of the family. In some cases this was easily done, others like Richard and Anne, this was not easily accomplished and the outcome was not of best circumstances.  For there one and only heir died tragically.  We don’t know enough about Anne to know why she was only able to have one child.  But it was very devastating for her, as well as Richard. It changed their lives forever.

The challenges and duties of a noble lady such as Anne Neville faced in her life, were more than likely quite demanding and at times very stressful.  The image of the knight in shining armor or “white knight” is a very realistic illustration of the psyche of not just one but many medieval noble ladies during the 14^th century. It is very easy to conclude that this is one of the reasons why the relationship between Anne and Richard today is so appealing to many, and not just the ladies of the Middle Ages. There is always a point in our lives where we all want to be rescued by a knight in shining armor from the evils or demands of society.

Sources: http://www.lordsandladies.org/daily-life-noblewoman-middle-ages.htm

Wooden Swords, Hobby Horses, and Educating Richard

The War of the Roses was a war that lasted through many a childhood for children during the fifteenth century.  One child included was Richard, the son of Richard, Duke of York and his mother Cecily Neville, a great beauty deemed by many. The family was of high station, but this didn’t keep the war at bay for the household.  Most assume that if your family was well off, even in the time of war in the Middle Ages, they were spared some of the hardships associated with war, but that was not the case at all for the youngest son of York.

Richard was the last child of Richard and Cecily's. In my research I have found that sources deter between Cecily having 10 or 11 children, including one child born after him, which did not survive very long. Infant mortality and mothers others who gave birth during the Middle Ages, prove over and over, to be a very life threatening situation. The medieval person, and midwives included, had no knowledge of disease, germs, how to prevent infection or access to painkillers or antibiotics if a problem arouse. You could have a fairly smooth delivery but the risk for infection resulting in “child-bed fever” was exceptionally high due to lack of preventative hygiene.  The next hurdle for any child who made it past their first year which held its own mortality rate of 25%, was surviving childhood in where, mortality alone was a 50% survival rate.  Noting, these statistics varied socioeconomically and demographically as well.

The little castle toy (above) would have been a typical toy in the 15th C.

Richard’s early years were rather turbulent. It’s a surprise to some that because of the war and conditions, he made it through this time.  He definitely did not have a peaceful childhood like one would hope. Looking at all the experiences he went through, it is very easy to understand why some would conclude he might have been a bit of a control freak or a tad insecure in later life. [1] After surviving infancy swaddled and nursed by a wet nurse, memories he more than likely would not remember suggest that the chaotic world around him was constantly changing, for good and for worse.  When other children his age where playing with toys such as kites, spinning-tops, hobby horses or making castles out of wooden blocks, he was being shuffled around to escape the dangers of war with his mother.  We know from literature written later in the Middle Ages, primary after 1400’s most children were aware of their roles in the household at a young age.  But this documentation also stresses the importance of play in the household.  This aspect of play helped the children learn their duties.  Knowing this, Richard and his siblings might of had little toys similar to what a knight would have, a wooden sword, a castle with figures where his sisters had dolls. 

But even the aspects and the adventures he might have had during play, as a child could not prepare him for what was to come.  Cecily seems to have been more apart of his life than most parents during his childhood, more than likely due to war and the need to keep her sons safe. His father on the other hand, he saw not so much, it was a relationship that was rather brief, but expected during this time. At the age of seven during the battle of Ludlow, his father and older brother Edmund, fled to Ireland escaping pending Lancastrian forces.  Richard with his brother George, one of their sisters, and the Duchess Cecily were all taken as prisoners of war.  They were held at Wigmore, and then later moved to Tunbridge Castle by their mother’s sister whom had married a Lancastrian husband. His brother Edward (later Edward IV) had fled to Calais.

 

A manuscript showing very young children in the care of women.

Cecily escaped from Tunbridge after a short time and was able to gain safety for her small children in the chambers of John Paston. Meanwhile, war waged around them.  The adventures of childhood play more than likely limited because of the war for Richard and his siblings.  Cecily had been called to London, not two days after they came to the Pastons’ and the children were left in the care of servants. Edward had returned to London after his victory at North Hampton. Henry VI was now his prisoner. Due to this time, and on going war, relations with the immediate family were close and treasured. Because of this, it is important to recognize the early relationships Richard had as a child, specifically with Edward.  This closeness that he developed with his older brother is what made him into the honorable and loyal brother he is noted to have been. The relationship Edward had with his younger siblings, specifically with Richard was a close one, for he visited the children almost every day, if possible. Richard probably admired and looked up to him greatly as he grew older, like a mentor.

In October 1460, Richard’s father Richard, Duke of York and his mother, and Edmund, Earl of Rutland returned to London. Parliament came to an agreement and enacted an Act that would make the Duke of York, “Heir-Apparent” and Lord Protector for the whole duration of Henry’s life.  This case was probably not hard at all to present to Parliament, as Henry had repeated bouts of insanity multiple times during his reign.  Richard, Duke of York had rights to the throne as well, through his family line that ran down through second son of Edward III. Henry VI was only related through the third son.  This stated that Henry VI could still be on the throne, but he had to acknowledge that Richard Duke of York was the “Heir-Apparent.” This didn’t go over well, as Queen Margaret fled with her son to Scotland in opposition to the decision made by Parliament.

The family spent that winter and Christmas at Baynard’s Castle. It was apparently the last time Richard saw his father. The Duke and his son Edmund traveled to Sandal Castle and spent their holidays there.  As the festivities of the winter months continued, so did the threat of ongoing war and unbeknownst to Richard, his mother Cecily, and the other children, they were to never see their father or husband, or Edmund their older brother again. On December 31, Richard Duke of York fell in the battle at Wakefield, with his son Edmund and many of his loyal knights. The heads of Edmund and the Duke were stuck on different gates of the city of York. It is noted that the Dukes’ was placed on Micklesgate Bar with a paper crown, as a form of insult. [2]

News traveled to London about the devastation of the battle of Wakefield. Duchess Cecily was grief stricken, and terrified for the safety of her children.  Fearing harm would come to them, she put Richard and George on a boat and sent them to Holland out of harms way. According to “The History of Richard III” by George Buck, Richard and his brother George, eventually were sent to Ulrich, which at the time was the largest and most prestigious city in Holland. A move perhaps to be near their older sister Margaret whom was married to Charles the Bold of Burgundy. It was there they received a “Princley and liberall education.” Richard did not return for a good few years later, by then he was ready to become a knight.

Notes:

[1] http://www.livescience.com/27625-king-richard-iii-control-freak.html

[2] Markham, Richard III: His Life & Character Reviewed in Light.

Sources cited:

http://www.representingchildhood.pitt.edu/medieval_child.htm

http://www.the-orb.net/non_spec/missteps/ch6.html