Those cute critters called sheep

So a lot has changed since my last post. I am half way across the world now and in grad school awaiting the start if my first year towards my PhD. Yes! Surreal it is, and I have missed my blog...and my horse.. whom is still stateside.. but that will change soon.

So besides doing things that I shouldn't... like breaking bones while climbing down walls... Whoops, I have been doing tons of research. My dissertation, which has been very very interesting, and also a gold mine as far as information of all sorts. Low and behold while working on my dissertation something well .... I should have expected is all over my research... Sheep 🐑
And I am quite impressed with the impact they had on fifteenth century English economy.

After a week of tracing and analyzing financial records of the fifteenth century in the records of the Calendar of Patent Records, and other valuable sources, making some lengthily databases; the trend of sheep and wool production likes to land in mass quantities where the money seems to drop. This also applies to the seemingly overly excessive amount of licences, chantry building etc., granted in the area as well. Meaning certain towns and areas, much more than say, some random little village in Norfolk. According to documentation, some of the receivers of large charitable gifts, managements of grants called frankalmoin and Mortmain, and others, the diocese and or parishes of these areas have a huge industry of both wool and sheep raising. Some areas such as Lincoln, and Wiltshire counties were hot spots for this form of economy. Some regions benefited from not only the export of wool but had cloth and textile centres. Now add the fact that some of the folks who sent off gifts to these areas was quite common and frequent  and for example the bishop of Salisbury had one of the most prolific bunch of sheep, this industry became a excellent source of income for the crown. This is very apparent during Edward IV's reign according to statistics discussed by Charles Ross, historian. Wool production and export increased by 72% during his second reign, according to figures.

So before I start rambling more numbers, it's apparent England had a very large love for the fluffy critters that more than dot the landscape today. And in the end if you follow the financial activity, and busy-ness of the area, via records, the likelihood that you will find a bishop with a very large herd of sheep and a nice production line to boot. More to come.

Reminiscing.....

Inside the Tower of London

So this last week, I have been reading, amongst other things Markham’s Richard III: His Life & Character. It got my wheels turning, as to some of his major points he draws on in his chapters about the princes and what became of them have also been questioned by myself. He also brings up a very interesting point about the authorship of the many articles that were written about the incident, as well as many others; including the Croyland Chronicles of London through out his argument. What went on in those author's heads?

He tried not to let the wax from the candle above the ledge of the writing desk drip to the parchment as he hurried the last few sentences of the following day’s news. Out of the corner of his eye watching the wax drip… and drip. People were talking, talking about many things, and the word needed to get out; Edward IV’s sons were missing. More than likely dead. He hadn’t heard the word murdered yet from anyone’s lips, but definitely missing. 

His hands shook as he blew the drying sand off the parchment to help make the ink set and dry faster. King Richard was still in York. He knew that much, but still there were many unanswered questions. He had to have known the fate of the children, how could he not.

Nervously, he read over his work, blew out his light and gave it to the grandmaster.

“I am done with tomorrow’s bit.” He nodded and said, as he backed away from the elder monk, waiting for criticism or acknowledgement. He never knew which would come first if any.

“The words, stories, are every where. Where is the King? He has to know?” He said again.

“Let's hope we know the truth soon, once he returns. Perhaps this is a misunderstanding, or one of the Lancaster’s plays of folly.” The grandmaster said as he glanced over the article the novice monk gave him. He hoped he didn't have to publish this... or more like wish it wasn't so.....

Folly, or misunderstanding, many of the accounts that were written whether they were against Richard’s reign or not, many baseless and not backed up by solid evidence as noted in Markham’s book. Personal prejudices at times, got in the way and aided the rumors. Will we ever know what happened? We might not but we can for sure develop a better understanding of the writers who wrote the articles and their basis for doing so.  Markham's book is perhaps one of my favorite sources of the life and time's of Richard III and the world he lived in.

What to Wear During the War of The Roses

"The White Queen"

I have always been a huge costume nut.  Great films and shows always are an excellent source of inspiration for me and anyone to create something fun, and eventually useful. Back in my college years, "Braveheart" helped me create an early medieval outfit for one of my medieval studies class, and lots of “Ohhhs and Awwws” from classmates.  Emma Thompson's and Ang Lee's adaptation of Jane Austen's "Sense and Sensibility" resulted in half a wardrobe filled with Regency period dresses, which all got worn to various Gaskell’s Balls in the Bay Area.  Yet no Mr. Darcy was seen.  Le sigh.

Most recent in my period costume film quest, I have discovered “The White Queen” produced by Starz yet even though not 100% historically accurate; has inspired pattern makers and costume/period dress nuts like myself, now to have a reason to make some pretty festive and beautiful frocks.  I finally have a use for the pewter crushed velvet in my sewing fabric stash! YAY! 2014 Night at the Symphony Costume Contest/Event, here I come!

Elizabeth Woodville

 

Back on topic. Dress.  It’s the War of the Roses.  Edward IV is trying not to get his supply of cloth cut off from Flanders and strikes a deal with Burgundy and his sister Margaret of York is escorted by the Earl Warwick, Richard Neville, to Burgundy for her pending marriage to help keep this important relationship open, and trade to keep going, despite rising conflict lurking in the horizon.  With this political backdrop, what did ladies wear, mainly the ladies at court? Dress during this time was actually quite depended on region.

15th Cent Italian Dress

For example Italy was on its own wavelength in contrast to the rest of the continent, as seen in paintings during the times. The northern part of Europe dressed a bit more to climate.   

Patterned fabric of period

The century began with the gown called “cotehardie” which we refer to as the one with the large bell sleeves and fitted down through the waist. This style faded quickly with introduction of new designs.  Gowns were long of course, and trimmed with fur (ermine, mink etc.) on the cuff, around the collar and sometimes the hem. Fabric was available in various dyes at this time.

The darker colors, reds, blues, dark green, blacks with brocades or patterned in artichoke or oak leave patterns; were of significant cost, mainly worn by those who could afford it, meaning the nobility. This style of gown is most known by the name: “houppelandes” which refer to the long flowing dresses of the time.

Garments were displayed or worn with a style called “slashing” which meant it was opened to reveal an other bit of clothing underneath, like a kirtle or under gown in contrasting colors (most common white or black). A chemise was worn close to the skin.  As time went on, repairs in sleeves of both men and women also accentuated this method of style.

Sleeves were mostly cuffed with matching fur from the color yet could be transferred to other gowns, with ornamentation on the cuff with jewels or embroidery. Also at times, if fur wasn’t worn, patterned fabric was used on both collar and cuff, which became more fashionable later in the century.

So what have I done with all this wealth of inspiration and creativity? I have put it to some use. I have made some alterations and adaptations of my own, but here is a glimpse of my current sewing project.  Today, we are lucky, we have sewing machines, just imagine all this work was done by hand at one point in time.  Headpiece… don’t ask me if I am going to make a hennin, I am not there yet. 

Step one: cutting out the dress: 

Detail of the side of the bodice, before I finished bead work.

Where we are at as of Sunday: Black sash, bodice jeweled, sleeves work in progress.

6 feet under… in the Middle Ages

The fascination of afterlife, and where our souls travel to, once we pass on is a complex yet colorful visit in the Middle Ages. The society and culture of the medieval person, both of upper class and peasant were a far stretch from our secular society of today.  Superstition ran rapid, as well as a belief system that was very intertwined within the Catholic faith of the period. This directly impacted how and the traditions behind preparation for death of a loved one, and the ritual of letting them pass on, such as a funeral. Death was very much apart of medieval life, much more than today because of this general attitudes towards life and death were both equally important to the medieval person.

Preparation as well as how elaborate the celebration of ones life varied from peasant noble as one would expect. This also changed as time went on as far as what was and how the events were recorded down. During the 15^th Century, documentation of medieval traditions became widely recorded including funerals of past kings. The medieval image of death is very well illustrated when looking at the literature created in the time. Illuminations of vivid and descriptive scenes of death or dying, ones deathbed, funeral rites all support the fascination of death and predation to be received by God. Emphasis was also placed in prayers placed in prayer books such as “Office of the Dead” that the owner would recite to shorten their time in purgatory. It is not an uncommon assumption to think that the average medieval man feared death. He feared for the salvation for his soul, hence the preparation with prayer, and other religious preparations were an important staple in many lives during this time, and especially in the end. The last thing any medieval individual wanted was to be stuck in Purgatory, or end up in Hell. For that fear was a very real one for many and something everyone worked to avoid during their lives.

We have a pretty good description of Edward IV’s funeral. His death was unexpected but it was after an illness of 10 days or so. Some preparations might have taken place earlier. It’s hard to tell. Edward died April 9^th. Before he was delivered to God’s hands, tradition of a priest was called to the bedside to read last rights. He was then repented of all his sins, and made a request for all debts to be paid, and in turn all sacraments were given from the church.

Edward IV

The description of Edward’s funeral we have, is a pretty good description gathering from Sir Thomas More, whose description is backed up by Mancini’s account of the event. Both descriptions give very detailed accounts of funeral preparations of the body, as well as the décor added to the procession, all showing a lavish display of wealth and royalty. His body was noted to have lain naked on a board in Westminster Palace, so that both lords both spiritual and temporal could see. Displaying of the body was done to dispel any rumors that his death did not really happen. Next, he was embalmed and wrapped in “cerements” of waxed linen cloth with a cap of estate on his head and his feet were adorned in red leather shoes. He next “lay in state” for eight days at St. Stephens Cathedral. While he was there, royal, as well as servants of the community performed requiem masses and watched him. April 17, his body was placed on a bier, covered with a large rich golden cloth and carried to Westminster Abbey. In his procession, 15 knights, and esquires accompanied him. Above him was a canopy of clothe fringed in gold and blue silk, and flanked at the corners by the four banners; Trinity, Our Lady (Mary?) St. George, and St. Edward, whom he was named after. Mass was held and he was placed in his resting place.

Richard’s funeral 1485

Despite what we have seen through popular media; Richard did more than likely, have some sort of funeral.  Also in preparation for unexpected death, the mass that was said that Monday morning before his last battle was to cleanse his soul in case of preparation of death while in battle. It is important to remember that during this time, England was in a state of war this was always a possibility. Richard was unfortunately was not the popular king in the battle. His body was looted, striped naked and paraded to town draped across the back of a horse like sac of grain. The time frame between when he was brought to town and actually noticed, I am not sure of but one of the main reasons why he was rescued by the Grey Friars was because they were the order in the church that took care of executed and people whom died in battle. 

Looking at the skeletal remains, we know he was tied at the hands. Reason for the friars not to undo this, might have been one of convenience. His grave was dug in a central location of their friary chapel and he was laid to rest more than likely in a sense of urgency. I am sure the though came to someone’s mind that they had to bury the body quickly due to the display that was prior to the retrieval of the body.  Naked, with out even a shroud, his body was placed haphazardly in his grave.  A pillar was later placed near his tomb in the chapel, but its existence is long gone due to the monastery being destroyed under the rule of Henry VIII. In stark contrast, Sir Simon de Montfort whom also died in battle never received a funeral or a proper burial. He was quartered and various body parts tossed in a river. Richard got lucky that someone acted quickly enough to save his body from a similar fate. 

 

Burial rituals for peasants did happen, but were not as lavish as Edwards. More than likely close to what Richard experienced. But the bodies after the wake were placed in the parish’s cemetery and the bodies were wrapped in a shroud. Circumstances and when and how someone died, definitely impacted how one was brought to St. Peter’s gates. But the contrast of Edward’s funeral and then Richards’ show the how easily a basic ritual or custom can be changed to suit the need of the time, especially in the time of war.

http://www.bl.uk/learning/histcitizen/medieval/death/medievaldeath.html https://medievalchristianityd.wikispaces.com/Death+and+Burials+in+Medieval+Times

https://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/death_middle_ages/index.html

An Interesting Find

Painting depicting Edward IV and Richard, Duke of Gloucester at court This 15th Century painting shows Richard (second left) at court with his brother King Edward IV. (From Who was the Real Richard III, http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/0/21261553) 

and this one: "Family Portrait of the More family"

This painting is interesting because apparently, contained in the painting, it has clues proving that Richard III did not kill the Princes in the Tower. More information can be found at: http://forum.purseblog.com/general-discussion/the-tudors-and-other-dead-royalty-thread-288714-4.html. I guess I found something fun to look into? In Hans Holbein, The Younger, a Guide to Research, it is suggest that the two princes assumed other identities.  A report done by Jack Leslau after the unveiling and cleaning of the portrait reviewed clues that Leslau argues that Holbein put clues in the painting, and other messages in the painting that suggest that the Princes were not murdered by Richard III. Edward became Sir Edward Guildford, and Richard became Dr. John Clement a physician who married More's adopted daughter Margaret. (source: Michael, Erika. Hans Holbein the Younger: A Guide to Research. Routledge, c. 1997 Google ebook version)

The King and his Horse

One of the most important aspects of chivalry is the knight and his horse.  Without these two, chivalry or even the knight of the Middle Ages, would be somewhat very less interesting. For it was the loyalty, honor, and bravery of the knight and his trusted steed, that became legend and the subject of many stories and fables.  This image is what inspired Chaucer’s “A Knight’s Tale” and many other medieval writer’s inspirations.  It was also what became the main symbolic aspect of the medieval tournament.

The standard tournament or model for such event, arose from Roman times as depicted through early works of art, but was further developed and branded during the 1160’s and 1170’s and through such works as The Life of William Marshal and many of the works of romances by Chretien de Troyes, who was renowned for his works of chivalry and courtly love romances.

Throughout the Middle Ages, chivalry and the knight was an important symbol to secular society.  Tournaments were knights would showcase their skills, were a height of popularity in Tudor times, as well during the time of Edward IV and Richard III. References are slim but they did hold these events.  It is entirely possible that Richard himself was trained to participate as well. But we do not know, nor have the evidence at hand to know if this really happened or not, least I have not come across it of late.  (Richard competing in a tournament, would be like jackpot in my book!) We know from historical record that Edward paid for Richard to be tutored in the ways of knighthood up at Middleham Castle, while he was staying with Richard Neville, the “King Maker.” 

Aneurin Barnard as Richard, Duke of Gloucester

 

There are records that in 1465, when Richard would have been 14 years of age, he began his study of arms under Warwick. His age corresponds to the average age of when most youth of noble linage would enter the tutelage of one who would prepare them for the ways of taking up arms whether it be for warfare or for sport. It is noted, Edward IV paid “for costs and expenses incurred by him on behalf of the Duke of Gloucester,” while Richard was at Middleham. It is presumed that Edward IV was thinking of the future of his throne when he made this move.  He knew Warwick’s reputation, as it was beyond excellent, and he needed as many allies as possible on his side to maintain the throne and keep the peace in the land. Henry VI was still alive, dethroned, but alive. That alone was enough of a threat.  He needed allies, and ones of blood were the best kind. So by training Richard in the finest art of warfare to the highest degree and preparing him for the most honorable position of knighthood, later becoming a knight of the Order of the Garter, was a perfectly planned move.  The skills and expertise later won Richard his renowned reputation on the battlefield as well as being an excellent equestrian.

Perhaps one of the most important aspects of tournaments and the “big picture” is the contribution that Richard started while he was king; he started the College of Arms. The College of Arms still exists today and housed the heralds and their work.  The heralds kept track of the genealogy aspect of the noble families that bore their crests, as well as the use of arms in battle and on the jousting or tournament field. The heralds have been known to be of use since the twelfth century. In 1484, the heralds were granted a charter to have their services housed in London, by Richard III.  When Henry Tudor came to power, he dismantled the heralds giving their authority of their order to his mother, Margaret Beaufort. It wasn’t until 1555, that it was reestablished. The heralds whether they are in funeral processions, or other stately events also were present at tournaments. There they confirmed and recording participation in events and proved proof of genealogy of the competitors during these events. They were also quite noticeable because their tabards were of the royal coat of arms, which distinguished them from other members of court and signified their importance.

(Image: King Richard III and his family in the contemporary Rous Roll in the Heralds' College. Left to right: Anne Neville, Queen of King Richard III; King Richard III; Edward, Prince of Wales, their son. ) [1]

So why where tournaments important? Besides working on skill and equestrian expertise; knights alike could tone their skills so when it was time for battle, they knew what they were up against.  It was also a place to display and build a reputation for their houses, as well as training.  It is uncertain that Richard III actually competed in any of these events, but it is known that Edward IV held them, and Henry VIII did participate, hence his famous jousting accident that caused him pain in later years of his life.

One of the most famous events of these tournaments, was jousting.  Which involved two-armored knight on horseback.  While on horse back, the knights charged each other very fast, using lances and the goal was to either break the opponent’s lance or unhorse him.  Jousting was very popular in England and Germany through out the Middle Ages.  It was highly popular in France until 1559, when King Henry II was killed in a jousting tournament. It was discontinued in France as a sport as a result. Horses used in these events were not light breeds such as Arabians, or Thoroughbreds of today, but heavier breeds similar to warm-bloods chargers and “Destriers.” Chargers were bred for aglity and stamina and the destriers were similar but larger to Andalusians, but not as big as today’s draft horses.  Kind of in the middle.

15th-Century Manuscript Illumination of a 

Knight in Armor from the Codex Capodilista

In the tournaments and also on the battlefield the horses wore it’s riders herald or coat of arms on his blanket or “caparison”, had armour on his head called “chanfron.” The rider almost all the time had spurs to help drive the horse forward, as well as saddle and bridle.  The different colors and the overall display was one that was very appealing to many, espeically the sepectators of the sport aiding in its popularity. Later in the 15-16^th century armor even had branched off to specific uses, even one for tournaments. Modifications were made to the suits to help with lance blows and helms were fashioned for more movement and better overal fit.  Tournaments were mostly held on Mondays, Tuesdays and other days of the week with the exception of Fridays and Sundays. As well as put on during the year, except during the 40 days during Lent.  Announcment of such events were made about a fortnight before, or two weeks.  At the end of the day, the patron or whom ever put on the event celebrated the days festivities with food, banquet, prizes and various forms of entertainment. It was an event that many would not want to miss. Because of the festivities surounding such events, it is prehaps why its allure and importance still remains today and is an important symbol of midieval life and culture.  Adding to its perservation, the contrubitions made by King Richard III, with the housing of the Heralds aided directly its preservation for years to come and is probably why we know of it today.

Sources/Notes:

1. Original from the Rous Roll, by John Rous, 15th century. Image is printed in: Jesse, John Heneage (1862) Memoirs of King Richard the Third and Some of His Contemporaries: With an Historical Drama on the Battle of Bosworth (PDF), London: Richard Bentley, pp. p. X Retrieved on 10 April 2009. (Accessed: 2/6/2014)

2. Halsted, Caroline A. Richard III: As Duke of Gloucester and King of England. Vol. 1 Longman. London, England. c. 1844. Pp. 109- 116

3. Jones, Robert. Knight, The Warrior and World of Chivalry. Metro Books, New York, New York c. 2011

4. http://www.college-of-arms.gov.uk/about-us/history

5. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jousting#Late_Middle_Ages

6. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tournament_%28medieval%29

7. Email from Amy Licence 2/7/2014